I Tried a New Sunscreen Ingredient That Was Finally Approved by the FDA After More Than 20 Years.
Unexpectedly good news from the FDA: bemotrizinol, a sunscreen ingredient used for decades in Europe and Asia, has finally been added to the list of approved ingredients for products sold in the US. Bemotrizinol is the active ingredient in sunscreens like Bioré Watery Essence, which enjoys cult popularity due to its uniqueness and lacks any equivalent in the US.
I tried the Bioré UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence sunscreen (that’s the full name of the product) in its original Japanese formula. It’s a cult favorite on skincare and Asian beauty forums for its non-greasy texture and UVA/UVB protection without leaving a white residue. I received my copy from a friend who either bought it while traveling or possibly ordered it from overseas; it’s not available in stores in the US.
I’ll explain why below, but first: it’s truly unlike anything else we have on sale. Even our most “greasy” sunscreens are usually a bit sticky or tacky. This one, however, is practically undetectable after application. I immediately understood why it’s so popular. Looking back on this experience, I’m eager to see what we’ll see in American sunscreens once manufacturers are allowed to add this ingredient.
What’s so special about bemotrizinol?
Bemotrizinol has many benefits. One of them is that it “plays well with other sunscreen ingredients,” as a dermatologist told Women’s Health . It can be used to create lighter, more pleasant-feeling sunscreens, hence the popularity of the Bioré formula I tried. To see what I mean, watch this video where a dermatologist demonstrates the differences between the Japanese Bioré formula and the version sold in the US. The ingredients are different, and the texture is simply not the same.
Additionally, it offers more effective broad-spectrum protection. In modern sunscreens, all active ingredients protect against UVB rays (the rays that cause sunburn), but only a few provide protection against UVA rays (which contribute to wrinkles and skin aging). UVB rays are thought to pose a greater risk of skin cancer, but both types of rays likely contribute to cancer risk. Currently, most broad-spectrum sunscreens produced in the US use mineral ingredients such as zinc oxide. Mineral sunscreens work quite well, but when applied in thick layers, they can leave a white cast on the skin.
Bemotrizinol is a chemical UV filter, so it doesn’t leave a white residue. It provides good protection against both UVB and UVA rays, and it’s more photostable than many existing chemical sunscreens, so it stays on the skin longer. In other words, it’s a chemical sunscreen, but it combines the best properties of both chemical and mineral sunscreens.
It’s also considered one of the safest sunscreens available. All sunscreens on the market are significantly safer than no sunscreen at all , but all of our chemical ingredients are currently undergoing safety evaluation, as regulatory agencies have determined they are likely safe but require further research to confirm. Currently, only two of our mineral sunscreen ingredients (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) are considered GRAS, meaning generally recognized as safe and effective. Bemotrizinol will be the third.
If you’re looking at the ingredient lists of Asian or European sunscreens, keep in mind that they are sold under different names. Tinosorb S is bemotrizinol; the same applies to bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine.
Why did it take so long?
Ask any skincare professional what they think of American sunscreens, and for decades you’ll hear complaints that we’re missing out on the best sunscreens used worldwide. (The last new ingredient in our sunscreens was approved in 1996.) In most countries, sunscreens are regulated as cosmetics, but in the US, they’re regulated as drugs. This means they require more stringent testing and approval in the US.
The CARES Act, passed in 2020 to provide pandemic relief, allowed over-the-counter medications to be sold without going through the full approval process, provided the FDA deemed them safe and effective. Bemotrizinol met these criteria, largely due to its safe use since 2000 in Europe, Asia, and Australia. FDA regulations for bemotrizinol have not yet been approved, but the new sunscreens are expected to hit store shelves by the end of 2026.