You Don’t Need an Electrician to Upgrade to Three-Prong Outlets
Unless there are serious safety issues, you’ll only need to update your wiring when it’s time for inspection, usually during a renovation or major remodel. So it’s no surprise that many older homes still have old two-prong (i.e., ungrounded) outlets .
If you have such a house, it would be a good idea to replace the sockets with modern three-prong ones . You may think that you will have to hire an electrician for this, but if you are experienced enough, you can do it yourself, quite inexpensively and easily.
And you should definitely upgrade—two-prong outlets don’t have a ground wire, which protects you from electric shock in the event of a power surge, and also protects your home and appliances from damage.
Materials you will need
Here’s what you’ll need to upgrade your outlets:
Sockets with automatic ground fault circuits (GFCI). You might think that you can just pick up any socket from the hardware store and replace it, but you would be wrong. If your two-prong sockets do not have an earth wire that is not in use, you will need to replace all two-prong sockets with sockets with automatic ground fault circuits (GFCI) (or rewire your house). These sockets have a built-in safety feature that will cut off the power if a fault is detected (they are usually installed in damp areas such as kitchens and bathrooms where splashing water can cause damage). If there is an earth wire, a standard three-prong socket can be used, but if you are unsure, use an GFCI.
Make sure you are using the correct amperage sockets. Most household sockets are rated for 15 amps, but some may be rated for 20 amps. A 20 amp socket will have a horizontal notch on the left side. Check your sockets and buy the correct GFCI sockets to replace them. If you are unsure, contact an electrician. Note that your GFCI socket will have a small sticker on it that says “NO EQUIPMENT EARTHING”. Don’t throw it away – you will need it later.
Black electrical tape. A roll of regular electrical tape will be used to wrap the outside of the socket after it is connected.
Screwdrivers. Arm yourself with both a flat-head and a Phillips-head screwdriver.
Wire stripper: A wire stripper may be needed if the existing wires are damaged or too short for the new outlet.
Non-contact voltage tester. This device checks whether the outlet you are about to touch is live. Get one.
Turn off the electricity
The first thing you need to do when working on electrical outlets (or any other device connected to your home’s electrical system) is turn off the power. If you’ve carefully studied the circuit breaker diagram for your panel , it should be easy enough to flip the breaker that feeds the outlet you’re replacing. If you’ve never opened up a panel before, you’ll need to draw a diagram first so you know which breaker to flip.
After disconnecting the power, check the outlet with a voltage tester . Make sure there is no voltage in the outlet before taking any further action.
Remove the old socket
Now you can start removing the old socket :
Unscrew and remove the front panel. If it is old, it is often recommended to trim the edges with a razor or knife to avoid damaging the paint on the wall along with the panel.
Remove the mounting screws. These are usually located at the top and bottom of the outlet and are inserted into a mounting box attached to the wall.
Pull the outlet out of the wall. The wires will go with it. Don’t pull too hard – leave excess wires in the wall if possible. Pull them out just enough to work on the connections.
Unscrew the wires. They are attached to the sides. Most likely, you will see a black (or red) and a white wire. Simply loosen the screws enough to pull the wires out.
Inspect the wires. If the wires don’t show signs of melting, burning, or missing insulation, you’re probably good to go. Make sure the exposed ends are long enough to fit into the new outlet; if not, you may need to use a wire stripper to strip the wires a bit.
Install a new outlet
Next, install the new shiny socket:
Attach the wires to the new outlet. The mounting screws will be on the side and are color-coded: gold for the black or red wire (the “hot” wire that supplies power to the outlet), and silver for the white wire (the “neutral” wire that returns power back to the panel). Some outlets (see pictures) have gold and silver wires on one side, and some have them on both sides. Insert or hook the wires as needed and tighten the screws.
Some outlets “hang” the wires from the screws and tighten them. Others allow you to insert the wire into a small hole and then tighten the screws; this may require straightening the wires if they were bent into a hook when removed.
Wrap the outlet with electrical tape. Wrap the outlet with electrical tape. Wrap it around the outlet, covering the contacts. Pull the tape tightly two full turns around the outlet, then cut the remaining piece with scissors (do not stretch or tear) and press firmly. The tape is an extra layer of protection against problems.
Insert the socket into the wall , pushing the wires into the recess. Secure it with screws and install the wall plate in place.
Turn on the power and test the outlet with a voltage tester. You can also plug something into it right away to make sure it’s working. If the ground fault circuit breaker (GFCI) trips right away (or the circuit breaker trips) and the outlet doesn’t supply power, you’ve done something wrong.
Get a “NO EQUIPMENT GROUND” label and attach it to the wall plate (if for some reason you don’t have one, make one yourself). This will let anyone who works on the outlet know that it is an ungrounded outlet, and it is mandatory.
That’s it! It’s all pretty simple, and if you follow basic safety rules, you won’t need an electrician to charge you a fortune for the job.