A Case for Savory Whipped Cream
Liquid heavy cream is a fairly neutral ingredient that can be added to sweet or savory foods to give them a luxurious texture, rich mouthfeel, and great fat. But for some reason, once you whip it, it is limited to desserts, even if there is no real reason for it.
Reserving whipped cream only for desserts and desserts is silly. Soft mountains of whipped cream can and should be used in salty dishes. Ever wanted to add a little pure, creamy goodness to a dish without wanting to get wet? The answer to this question is savory whipped cream. To open your mind to possibilities, just think of it as a more discreet crème fraîche, a whisper of a burrata, or a funnier version of a (boring) liquid cream, which is literally it. Add it to soup bowls, salted fish canapes, and summer tomato salad (or just dip cherry tomato in it).
Once you’ve decided on a dish (or menu), collect your favorite fresh herbs, because you need to insist a little. I love thyme, marjoram and tarragon, but you can do whatever you want and create your own flavor profile. Chop them coarsely, let stand in a glass of cream overnight, then strain. Add a pinch of salt and whisk. You can add some garlic (or a few of the same herbs) if you like, but it can be fun to keep the flavor subtle for a surprise. (People never expect savory whipped cream.) To make your own, you’ll need:
- 1 cup heavy cream
- 4-5 large sprigs of fresh herbs (I used one large marjoram, one large tarragon, and one very large sprig of thyme that had multiple shoots)
- 1 very generous pinch of salt
- 2 tablespoons minced garlic (optional)
Chop the greens coarsely and put in a jar of cream. Close the jar. Maybe we’ll shake it up a couple of times. Leave the jar in the refrigerator overnight or up to 24 hours. Strain all small pieces of grass before whipping the cream.
Beat the cream until slightly harder than soft peaks. Add garlic if desired. Serve immediately, preferably to an unsuspecting guest who has never even considered the possibility of lightly salted herb infused with cream, and then bask in their amazement. Repeat as necessary.