Caponata Is the Perfect Bridge Between Summer and Autumn
Eggplant peaks from summer to early fall, when they can still be harvested young, after which we have imported, waterlogged eggplants in the food aisle. So I urge you: celebrate eggplant with one of the best Sicilian blends.
Caponata is an appetizer of fried eggplants, celery, onions, olives and capers. Everything is cooked together in such a way as to isolate and bring out the best flavors of each ingredient. Mix it all together with a sweet and spicy tomato sauce and you have a beloved Sicilian dish that is also a collage of the various cultures that have left their mark on the island.
What is good about caponata?
For Sicilians, caponata is a serious business: some readers will say that I have already made a mistake in the description, missing peppers, pine nuts or raisins. This is because, despite the simplicity of caponata, there are a staggering number of recipes for this dish, originating from places all over the island – from Palermo, Catania, Messina and Argento – and even more different recipes from house to house.
Throughout history, Sicily has been repeatedly conquered by various civilizations, such as the Normans and the Arab empires, which have left an indelible mark. As a result, one of the most incredible things about Sicily is how many cultures have influenced its cuisine. Only in caponata do you have Greek olives, Italian tomatoes and Arabic influences of agrodolce and (sometimes) raisins that exist on their own and coexist together in a sweet, spicy, vibrant compote. But above all, it is an edible metaphor and a constant reminder of Sicily’s varied history.
How to serve caponata
Caponata is usually served as an appetizer, eaten on its own or with bread, but it’s incredibly versatile. Spread it on toasted bread like bruschetta. Put it on a sandwich. Pair it with fresh pasta and a generous helping of shredded cheese – ricotta insalata is a great choice most often found with Alla Norma pasta , but you can never go wrong with parmesan. It is also an excellent acid balance as a side dish for grilled fish or other meats.
But personally, I like caponata and sausage the most. Of all the ways to consume caponata, its function as a condiment may be the most amusing. After all, tomato puree, sugar, and vinegar are the main ingredients in ketchup and the elements that give caponata its flavor of agrodolce.
How to cook caponata (at least one version of it):
Ingredients:
- 5 small Italian eggplants or 2 large eggplants, cut into 1-inch cubes and unpeeled
- 1 small red onion
- 2-3 celery stalks, diced
- 1 cup passata or tomato puree
- 1 cup pitted castelvetrano olives, cut in half
- 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
- 6 basil leaves
- 1 tablespoon capers (preferably in sea salt)
- 1 tablespoon pine nuts
- 1 tablespoon brown sugar
- 1 cup grape seed oil
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 garlic cloves, crushed
- Salt, pepper and red pepper flakes to taste
Heavily salt the diced eggplant, preferably half an hour before frying, to evaporate excess water. Heat a generous sip of grapeseed oil in a frying pan. (Traditionally extra virgin olive oil is used for frying, but because eggplant absorbs oil like a sponge, the grapeseed oil’s high smoke point helps brown the eggplant nicely without soaking in too quickly.) Roast until the eggplant is translucent and well browned. , then set aside.
In a separate pot or pan, heat the olive oil and add the minced garlic and a generous pinch of red pepper flakes to absorb the flavors. Then add the onion and celery and cook until tender and translucent, about 5-10 minutes over medium heat. Add the passata or tomato puree to the onion and celery and salt to taste, let the sauce simmer for 10-15 minutes.
At this point, all of our separately cooked (and raw) ingredients come together. Remove the sauce from the heat and add the sautéed eggplant, olives, capers and all other ingredients. Then stir and return the caponata to the stove, let it simmer for about ten minutes, then cool to room temperature and transfer to the refrigerator to allow the flavors to blend. The real key to caponata is to let it chill in the fridge overnight before serving at room temperature. However, you won’t be disappointed if you grab a bite to eat beforehand.