You Need to Cook These Savory Pancakes
Eggs and toast are usually my breakfast. Any number of food companions can join the party, but this savory mix of protein and carbs always wins. At the same time, the toast in this union changes from day to day, depending on what I have in the freezer, and recently it was pancakes. Most people think crumpets are slightly sweet and go best with butter and jam. While it’s a delicious way to spice them up, they’re even better coated with runny eggs and salted avocado. Let’s make delicious pancakes.
Most people in America are familiar with the English muffin. Thomas took care of that, and we’re all better off for it. Well known for their nooks and crannies, English muffins were our pick for Eggs Benedict, Eggs Florentine, and countless other no-name egg breakfasts. However, cupcakes have a loser cousin – crumpets. Round and puffy, much like an English muffin, at first glance you might mistake it for one. The differences are few, but noticeable. The top of the muffin is perforated with numerous holes, and the bottom is flat and airtight, unlike the English muffin, in which all the precious holes remain inside. The texture of the bun is supple, flexible and resilient like a sponge, while the toasted English bun can be used as a puck in a game of floor hockey.
The crumpet has a more yeasty flavor than the English muffin, which I prefer because it has a sourdough feel, though not sour. This yeasty consistency makes the spongy dough well-suited for savory uses, and its many holes make it the perfect vessel for collecting puddles of salted butter or sticky egg yolk. Even after toasting the next day, the crumpet is lightly browned on the outside, but remains firm on the inside, so the sharp serrations never scratch the palate, and every bite is met with a little resistance. You feel less like a hyena tearing up your breakfast than like a person preparing for a new day.
Of course, in many grocery stores you can buy prepackaged crumpets in the refrigerated bread aisle, but they will not be as herbaceous and fresh as those that can be prepared at home according to the recipe below. The dough is simple, and although they are partially fermented with yeast, you let the mixture stand not for two hours, but for about 20-30 minutes. The dough gets help from the baking powder, which allows many holes to be made in a short amount of time, along with the warm malt flavor from the yeast.
To make the crumpets, place all the ingredients in a bowl and whisk them together thoroughly for about two minutes. The dough is similar in thickness to the dough for pancakes, but it is even easier to prepare. Cover it and let stand in a warm place. I usually use the microwave with the lights on as a proofer . While it is proofing for 20 minutes, oil a few metal rings . (I know who has metal rings? If you don’t have metal rings, you can use the sleeves of glass jar lids.) Heat a skillet with a little oil in the center. Over medium heat, place the oiled ring in the pan and spoon about ¼ cup of batter into it. (If you are using a jar lid ring, start with the edge facing down.) The dough will begin to cook and holes will form around the edges near the metal. Cook the crumpets for about two minutes, or until some of the bubbles in the center burst and begin to dry out. Remove the ring before flipping it over (but if you are using a jar lid, remove it after flipping). Flip the pancakes and cook for another minute.
The following recipe uses thyme, but you can substitute any finely chopped herb you like. Or just cut it out entirely and eat a plain tortilla to give yourself a few options later. The wings keep covered in the refrigerator for up to five days before they begin to dry out. If you have leftovers, I suggest freezing them. You can then take one out whenever you want and put it in the toaster for five minutes. They can be stored frozen, well wrapped, for up to two months.
Spicy pancakes with thyme
Ingredients (for six):
- 200 ml warm water (about 3 tablespoons per ¾ cup)
- 1 teaspoon dry yeast (I use SAF yeast )
- 1 cup flour
- ¼ teaspoon salt
- ¼ teaspoon sugar
- 1 teaspoon baking powder
- 1 tablespoon thyme leaves
Add water and yeast to a medium bowl. Let the yeast swell for a minute or two and stir. In a bowl add flour, salt, sugar and baking powder in order. Whip this mixture for two or three minutes straight to strengthen the gluten. Add thyme and stir gently until combined.
Cover the bowl and leave in a warm place for 20-30 minutes. In the meantime, prepare the metal rings.
Oil two 3-inch metal rings. Here it is better to spread them than to skimp on oil.
When there are a lot of bubbles in the batter, place a non-stick skillet over medium heat. Add a pea-sized amount of oil to coat the bottom and place one metal ring in the pan. Add about ¼ cup of thyme crumpets to the ring. It will bubble and brown on the sides – now you can remove the ring. (If you are using a rock jar lid sleeve, remove the ring after turning the crumpet upside down.)
When many have burst, dried, bubbles have formed on the surface and, perhaps, the very center dries up, about two minutes, turn the donut over and cook for another minute.
Enjoy fresh with a soft-boiled egg and avocado or spread with salted butter. Any leftover crumpets can be stored wrapped in the refrigerator for up to five days or frozen for up to two months. To revive, put them in the toaster for a few minutes.