Canned Lemons Are Your New Favorite Seasoning
I like to divide my life into two eras: the time before I learned about canned lemons and the time after I learned about canned lemons. Unlike fresh lemon zest or juice, these fun little wedges add a touch of umami and a slightly sour flavor.
Basically, they’re good in everything – savory and sweet – and while you can buy them at most specialty grocery stores, they’re easy to make. In its simplest form, all you need to make canned lemons is the lemons themselves and some salt. (You can also add sugar, peppercorns, bay leaves, or whatever spices you like, but I prefer to keep it simple.)
Just wash a few lemons well (regular or Meyer will do) and trim off a few at each end. Then cut the lemon lengthwise into quarters, leaving the quarters connected at one end. Place the fruit in a bowl and stir in plenty of salt (about 1/2 cup for eight lemons), making sure it sinks between the quarters. Cover with plastic wrap and place the bowl in the refrigerator overnight so the lemons can release their delicious juice out into the world.
The next day, transfer the salted lemons and their juice to a sterilized tin can, tamping them down to really squeeze them in. After you have a jar full of lemon wedges dipped in their own liquid (you can squeeze more lemon juice if needed), close the jar (or jars) and place them in a cool, dry place for at least a couple of weeks. Shake daily to soften the peel. Transfer the entire situation to the refrigerator, where it can be stored for up to a year.
After you have endured the agony of waiting for these things to ferment, you are finally ready to enjoy your reward. Remove the wonderful wedge (or seven) from the jar and rinse off the excess salt. The pulp can be scrubbed into boiling soups and stews, whipped into salad dressings, or mixed with regular store-bought mayonnaise to make a paste so delicious that you seriously consider spreading it all over your body. The sliced rind can be sprinkled with grilled meats, pasta, salads, or anything that requires a bright, tart and savory flavor. You can also just toss whole wedges into the bowl and let the eaters choose their own adventure.
With the exception of lemonade, almost any recipe that calls for plain, boring lemons is instantly complemented by canned lemons. Hell, that even extends to cocktails. Tinned lemon peel makes a great side dish for a martini, and the pickling liquid will really invigorate Bloody Mary. Once you start using canned lemons, you will find that you are restrainedly obsessed with finding new ways to use them, which is not difficult. My current obsession is mixing sliced crusts with every sauce and pasta I make and everything is going really well. I am also very happy to try my hand at canned lemon tart.