No Need to Fry Green Tomatoes
As temperatures rise above Arctic levels and the birds spend sixteen hours a day loudly heralding the Doin ‘It season, the brief and glorious event of my year – the tomato season – seems close enough to be touched. Of course, this is still a long way off, but the season of green tomatoes has just begun.
Except for varieties that remain green as they ripen, green tomatoes are simply unripe tomatoes. It is tempting to compare them to tomatoes, but since they are fruits of very different plants, green tomatoes and tomatillo don’t really have that similar taste or texture. Tomatoes are pleasantly pungent and crunchy when raw, but raw green tomatoes can be quite astringent, making them a poor substitute for both ripe, seasonal tomatoes and tomatoes.
While they are completely safe to eat – and definitely not poisonous as popular myth suggests – we usually don’t look for unripe fruit. Then you might wonder why anyone needs green tomatoes at all. Popping them into a hole in the shape of ripe tomatoes or tomatillos only ends up in frustration, but accepting green tomatoes as a standalone (and worthy) ingredient really pays off. Unlike ripe tomatoes , green tomatoes tolerate heat exceptionally well. This is why roasted green tomatoes are so great: Cooking them softens their raw, wrinkled astringency, which then becomes a great counterbalance to the salty, crispy roasted nibbles. Plus, their firm texture means they don’t turn into gruel in hot oil.
Fried green tomatoes are classics for a reason, but they are not entirely innovative; Also, I hate deep-fried at home. Here are three less common green tomato remedies to help you hold out until July. Either can also be used to make sad, crunchy off-season tomatoes that are worth eating.
Pickled green tomatoes
Chopped into half moons and dipped in a spicy sweet pickle, the green tomato pickles are incredibly delicious. The brine enhances their natural acidity and they retain that firm, almost crunchy texture for several months. When I saw the first batch of green tomatoes on the market in March, I knew what I needed to do.
I use a New York Times recipe that leaves pickled tomatoes and onions on a wire rack in the refrigerator overnight. This step is annoying but extremely effective; If you don’t have room for this in the fridge, the ice maceration technique from this buttered pickle recipe from Smitten Kitchen is for you . I recommend two changes: salt the brine to taste (I used about two teaspoons of table salt ) and add a little garam masala if you have one – especially cardamom is perfect with green tomatoes.
After you’ve cooked your pickles, you can eat them straight out of the jar, put them in sandwiches, or use them as gherkins – the rules for green tomato tartare. You can also chop them finely with fresh herbs for a flavorful chutney-like seasoning (especially good for curries), or rub the slices with Dijon oil and a little brine for a very nice vinaigrette.
Buiurdi green tomato
This classic Greek meze has an almost unrivaled reward-to-effort ratio; the recipe is practically unnecessary, but anyone who eats it will want it anyway. Here’s how to do it.
Preheat oven to 425ºF. Chop about one green tomato and one or two hot peppers (I added some dried arbol chili to the poblano) and thinly chop half the onion. Season vegetables with salt and a little olive oil, then place in a baking dish with thick plates of feta.
Drizzle liberally with olive oil (seriously, try it) and a few pinches of dried or fresh oregano. Cover tightly with foil, transfer the dish to a baking sheet and bake for half an hour; remove the foil and bake or broil until browned. Serve hot with crispy bread, salad, cold wine or beer, or scrambled eggs and toast.
Even this simple “recipe” can be discussed. Don’t like onions or peppers? Skip! Feed the crowd? Spread the seasoned vegetables evenly on a baking sheet with foil, top with feta, olive oil and oregano, then bake or sauté. My neighbor’s Greek restaurant has both: they cover one layer of thinly sliced tomatoes with feta plates, pour it all over with olive oil and fry under a salamander. It’s buiurdi in its simplest, most important form, and it’s incredible.
Inverted cornbread with green tomatoes
When it comes to baking, I have habits, but Stella Parks usually inspires me to try new things. Her recent hybrid inverted blueberry muffin and pie recipe got me thinking: I had a bunch of green tomatoes and my favorite was the cornbread in the pan, and the two certainly seemed like the perfect combination.
At times, I feel totally justified playing my horn. Now is one of those moments. Green tomatoes retain their shape and flavor so they can be recognized, while oil and onions provide much-needed richness. Result: A tangy, savory, inverted cornbread. All you need to do is make your favorite cornbread recipe (mine is Alex Guarnaschelli’s cornbread ), butter, some kind of onion, and green tomatoes.
Preheat oven to 400ºF. Make cornbread dough. Chop about two pounds of green tomatoes and thinly slice a medium onion , a very large shallots, or a handful of shallots.
Melt 3 tablespoons of butter in a 10-inch ovenproof pan (I use stainless steel ) over medium to high heat. Add vegetables and half a teaspoon of adobo or salt. Cook until vegetables release most of the water and develop fatty foods, ten to fifteen minutes; Ripe tomatoes with red edges will take longer to brown. Watch the pan carefully (all this oil can burn it), but don’t stir it like crazy.
When the vegetables are browned well, try trying and add more adobo or salt if needed. Add another portion of the butter to the skillet, stir gently to coat the edges, and pour the cornbread dough straight over the top. Smooth out the surface with a spatula or spoon and transfer the pan to the oven. Bake for 25 minutes, then check with a toothpick or butter knife; if the tester doesn’t come out clean, give it five more.
To serve, run the butter knife over the edge of the cornbread and place a heatproof plate in the skillet. Using the oven mitts, grasp the handle and plate and gently turn it over. Let the skillet sit on a plate for 30 seconds, then carefully lift and remove; cornbread should decompose well. If not, scrape off whatever is left in the skillet back onto the cornbread. Serve alone with sour cream and hot sauce, or to accompany a hearty, spicy stew.
Picking a few green tomatoes from the vine early in the season can help prevent fast-rotting fruit in the kitchen in August, but even if you’re not growing your own, I hope these recipes inspire you to see the potential of unripe tomatoes. … Patience can be overestimated, and I think green tomatoes are living proof of that.