How to Make Great Patties
I don’t care about the man who used to be called my stepfather, but at least he introduced me to latkes. The slightly brownish potato dish was unlike anything my seven-year-old palate tasted, and it had a lot of potatoes.
Making a good latque is not as easy as tossing chopped stalks in hot oil. This is a simple dish with simple ingredients, but there are several strategies that should be followed no matter which recipe they use. (There are many great recipes, but this one from Epicurious is a great place to start, although I usually increase the salt to a whole teaspoon and add a couple tablespoons of matzo.)
Use a food processor
If you don’t want to tire your wrist and possibly peel the skin off your knuckles, put the grater back in the drawer and seek a little mechanical help. Take a food processor and, using the chopper, cut into nice, uniform, small potato chips that will give the pie weight and have crisp edges. They don’t need to be peeled – I love the flavor that the rind adds – just push the washed reddish brown wedges through the feed hole. Since potatoes tend to darken quickly, prepare everything else before shredding. (Storing them in a bowl of cold water can also prevent browning, but you will lose some of the starch in the water.)
Squeeze it out
To keep the edges of the potatoes crispy and wrinkled, you need to rid the potato slices of excess moisture. To do this, wring them out in portions by placing them in a clean kitchen towel or double layer of cheesecloth near a cup. Fold the fabric, then squeeze the shoots out with maximum force, twisting to one side and then to the other. Repeat until all of the shoulder blades are wrung out, changing the kitchen towels as needed.
Make an oil change
Traditionally, latkes are cooked in olive oil, but this substance burns at high temperatures, which makes the latke taste bitter. For a clean potato-forward patch, rapeseed oil is best, although some people like the flavor that peanut butter gives. However, if I am going to use butter with any non-potato flavor, it will be schmalz or duck fat. (Schmalz and potatoes are a powerful duo, if there ever was one.) After you’ve toasted the latte until it’s perfect golden brown, drain it onto paper towels, season with kosher salt, and place in a 250-degree oven. to keep warm while you finish mixing. (Alternatively, just feed people as they cook; fresh latke is excellent.)
Don’t skimp on buckets
Don’t assume that you can only serve sour cream or only applesauce. Both are absolutely essential. A hot salty latke with cool sour cream and sweet applesauce is one of those combinations that work so well that I almost fondly remember my terrible stepfather. (I saw him send eggs back to Danny once, so this is compelling support.)