What If You Served Fish at Thanksgiving Instead?

As I’ve gotten older, I’ve come to view Thanksgiving less as a holiday and more as an occasion to gather around a big meal. Honestly, for me (and maybe you) it’s mostly a day of celebrating what we eat, which means we don’t have to be so traditional. My family has a repository of traditional recipes that we follow to a T, but sometimes we bring sophisticated experiments to the table in an effort to impress. If you, too, are ready to embrace a new perspective on this time of year, then you have the perfect excuse to serve fish on this important day.

Flexible fish

The main fish dish can be prepared extremely simply, focusing on freshness and impressive appearance, simply by frying the fillet with olive oil, herbs and lemon. Or you can make a big culinary project out of it, like a whole fish baked in salt. You can grill it to give it a smoky, charred finish, or broil it for a crispy exterior that’s more satisfying than silky meat. You can roast it, sous vide or brine it.

The main thing is not to be afraid of fish. It’s no more difficult than cooking a turkey: use a thermometer and you’ll be fine. The butcher can fillet the fish for you, although if you’re hoping to impress guests, deboning the whole fish on the table might score you a few points. In short, as with turkey, you can choose the level of commitment you’re comfortable with.

Fish is a bridge for many who do not eat meat

Of course, this won’t make your vegan friends happy, but a lot of people who “don’t eat meat” will still eat fish. It is healthier than meat in many ways, from lower fat content to the presence of essential omega-3 oils in many varieties. It’s also lighter, so what would normally be considered a heavy meal can be slightly improved. Fish, as a less showy dish, allows the sides to shine. (That said, if health is not an issue, no one will mind a little béarnaise sauce on long, silky salmon.)

The fish is easily available, fresh and flexible.

Salmon, an extremely popular fish that lends itself incredibly easily to a variety of preparations, is available fresh this time of year. The same goes for Atlantic and Pacific cod, whole tuna and trout. If you have a good local seafood store, ask them about varieties such as branzino, halibut, grouper and snapper, which are ideal as whole fish to serve at a gathering. If you’re going to select fish, don’t wait until the day – talk to your butcher now and you’ll be better off if you can find a real seafood shop in town. If that’s not possible, consider a mail order service like Mac’s Seafood on Cape Cod.

Shellfish raise the level of luxury

If the fish doesn’t feel well, shellfish are left over. If you have shellfish, having a whole lobster for dinner will give everyone at the table something to do while they avoid talking about politics. Oysters aren’t just for stuffing—make them the star as an appetizer, either on the half shell or grilled. If you’re looking to impress with less cash, bouillabaisse—a rich, saffron-infused broth full of shellfish—will leave a serious impression.

Try a new recipe that suits your culinary ambitions.

• Beginners should try grilling whole fish . If your grill is clean and well-oiled, whole fish can sit directly on the grate, but if you’re worried about that, you can use a piece of foil. (You’ll miss the grill marks, but not the flavor.) You can even stuff the fish with aromatics. Trout, snapper or branzino are ideal choices for this cooking method.
• Fish baked in salt is great for those who are ready to experiment. It’s exactly what it sounds like: you bake a whole fish in a mountain of salt, which adds flavor to the meat while keeping it moist. If you break off the crust of salt on the table before serving, you get a real spectacle. For this method, consider branzino or bass.
• True gourmets can level up their game by trying pan-roasted salmon . You wrap the whole fish in dough, creating a rubber boot of sorts. If done correctly, the dough will be flaky and crispy, and the fish inside will be moist and flavorful. When cut, it looks great on a plate. Salmon is available whole in most cities.

If you’re excited about switching things up this season, start planning now by finding seafood and considering your options, then choosing a recipe. Your guests won’t know what hit them.