This Italian Semolina Cheesecake Is Incredibly Easy to Make.
Making cheesecake is a pain in the ass and I only make it for special occasions. Part of the problem is that I do my best. It’s a complete product: a crumb crust, greasy, full of sugar, three inches high, baked in a bain-marie until set, and chilled in the refrigerator overnight. Since I don’t always feel like doing all of this to satisfy my cravings for a sumptuous, thick, cheesy dessert, I’ll turn to Migliaccio and make myself more cheesecake with less hassle with this Italian Semolina Cheesecake.
What is Migliaccio?
Comparing migliaccio to American style cheesecake is a bit unfair. It doesn’t have to be the same texture, and I wouldn’t call it a replacement for a tangy cream cheese dessert. Instead of cream cheese, ricotta cheese adds the necessary jiggle and hydration to make this dessert delicious as hell. As long as you approach this dessert with the thought in mind, you will fall head over heels.
In Naples, Italy, migliaccio is a popular dessert enjoyed during Carnevale, a celebration just before the Christian season of Lent. Its flavor profile is slightly sweet and citrusy, thanks to soaked lemon and orange zest and a small amount of limoncello liqueur . Semolina makes up the bulk of its structure, which means, unlike American cheesecakes, migliaccio can be eaten straight out of the oven. Not right away – I’m not trying to cause third-degree burns here – but this cake doesn’t depend on cold, hardened, saturated fats to provide structure and make it sliceable. In fact, warm, aromatic and custard is my favorite way to enjoy it. (But if you like cold desserts, then this cake is great to hold in your hands.)
The biggest benefit for me is that there is no crust to fiddle with and no bain-marie to endure, reducing the waiting time, from baking to eating, from 10 hours to about an hour and twenty minutes. That means more cheesecakes for my not-so-special occasions. (Fortunately, my life is full of such things.)
The dough is also easy. I made migliaccio from this recipe by Pina Bresciani, which ends with helpful recipe notes, of which I used two of the three variations. I wanted the cake to be firmer, so I started by removing excess moisture from the ricotta with paper towels. If you want something milder, the recipe really starts by soaking the zest in milk. The citrus zest and vanilla pod (if used) are removed, and the aromatic liquid obtained is used to prepare the semolina base. Eggs and sugar are beaten by hand or with a mixer until fluffy. Soon after, ricotta and a chilled semolina base are added to the sweet egg mixture.
How to do it right the first time
There are a few things to keep in mind to ensure success. You don’t need to use vanilla pods for the milk seasoning as mentioned in the recipe notes, but you do need citrus zest. Instead of rubbing the microplate, use a vegetable peeler to get long ribbons of zest. This will make it easier to remove later.
When you are ready to add the semolina to the hot milk, use a whisk and slowly pour in. If you pour too quickly (or worse, pour it out!), you will end up with lumps. Semolina thickens quickly, and before you know it, bits you thought you could shake out will show up in the finished pie.
Once the dough is mixed, you will think that you have made too much. Yes, this is quite a lot of dough, but this is typical for all cheesecakes. There’s no baking powder, so you don’t have to plan for a lot of lifting. The cake will puff up slightly during baking as steam is released, but when it cools it will settle back down.
The recipe calls for the use of a split mold. I don’t have a 9″ or 10″ springform pan, so instead I line my cast iron skillet with parchment and bake it there. It worked great and had a rustic appeal to serve.
Migliaccio is a great choice if you’re looking for something a little different and low maintenance compared to other cheesecakes. The texture makes it perfect for transporting to a friend’s house or a picnic, just let it cool until it hardens and wrap it up. When you arrive at your destination, you can decide whether you want to serve it at room temperature or reheat it in the oven on a parchment-lined baking sheet for 10 minutes at 350°F. Its lemony aroma will fill the kitchen, its delicate sweetness will please everyone and if you have leftovers, they keep well in the refrigerator for a few days or in the freezer for up to three months.