The Best Way to Hide Dark Spots and Blemishes
If there is one makeup technique that separates professionals from amateurs, it is complexion work. Convincingly mimicking perfect skin with makeup requires a working knowledge of color theory, lighting, skin types and cosmetic formulas, not to mention a lot of experience.
I never had great skin , but after years of trial and error under the guidance of a dermatologist, my acne finally started to fade. Even though I still have hyperpigmentation spots and pimples, I only wear foundation to major events. The most I do on a daily basis is masking blemishes, which is the best method for hiding dark spots while maintaining an overall realistic look.
Whether you’re having problems with your foundation – whether it’s color matching, ingredient sensitivity, or midday cake syndrome – or you just don’t like it, masking blemishes can even out your skin tone without looking like a mask. Here’s how to do it.
Protect your skin
Makeup cannot magically smooth out bumps or flakes, so if you need to hide blemishes, scabs, or other rough texture, preparation is everything. I really believe in Vaseline , which I put on my still damp face right after cleansing. This keeps my skin hydrated all day long and protects it from potential acne triggers when using sunscreen and / or makeup. Any active pimples or scaly areas will be covered with a large extra ball, which I let sit for at least five minutes; I remove the excess with a cotton swab just before applying concealer.
For hygiene reasons, I don’t recommend trying to cover open wounds with makeup, but if you have a juicy pimple to fight, here’s what to do. Immediately after removing the petroleum jelly with a cotton swab, apply a translucent powder to the pimple with a puff or sponge and leave for a minute; repeat if necessary. This should give you a canvas that is moist enough not to look flaky, but dry enough to hold the concealer.
Choose the right color
Most people use a concealer that is too light. It’s easy to see why: if you need to cover up a dark spot, looking for something superluminal to counteract that darkness makes intuitive sense.
Unfortunately, this is not how pigment works. White pigment makes dark spots gray rather than completely hiding them, so concealer should be about as dark as anything you’re trying to hide. Most people require a maximum of two shades of concealer: orange for blue or purple eyeshadow and yellow for redness.
Here are four concealers heavily applied just below my chin (LR: Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer in Sx09, Kevyn Aucoin SSE in Sx06, NYX Dark Circle Concealer in Fair, Tarte Shape Tape in Light Sand):
The lighter shades match my skin tone exactly, but they have too much whites to hide my acne spots, under eye circles or even redness on my cheeks, so the darker shades are really perfect.
Let’s start where most concealers are done: dark circles. On my right eye (your left), I used NYX Dark Circle Concealer at Fair; on the left (right) I used the Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer in Sx09. (I applied and blend both fingers.) NYX concealer white pigments leave a gray tint, but my left eye looks great; the difference is especially noticeable in natural light.
Next, let’s talk about redness. Everyone knows that green cancels out red, so a green concealer is a seemingly logical choice for removing redness. However, the redness of the skin is not pure red; it is a combination of markedly swollen blood vessels (red) and varying levels of melanins (mostly brown and black, with some red). These browns and blacks make the widely used mint green concealer useless for most people: adding green and white to a dark, reddish purple brown just makes the color lighter and grayer brown.
Yellow concealers do a better job of reddening for the vast majority of people, but again, too much white is bad news. On the right cheek (your left) I applied Tarte Shape Tape in Light Sand; to my left is Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer in Sx06. (I applied Tarte with my finger and Kevyn Aucoin with a tiny brush; I blend both with my fingers.) The lighter concealer suppressed the redness, but left a distinct gray tint.
The same happens with acne and hyperpigmentation marks. I used Shape Tape to hide the blemish on the right side of my chin and it worked, but see how much better a dark yellow concealer does on things:
Use the tiniest brush you can find
Applying a small amount of super opaque formulas allows for progressive build-up of coverage, which is always better than applying too much at once and trying to blend. To do this, you need a really tiny brush.
You probably won’t find the perfect detailing brush at Sephora or Ulta, but your local art store can help you. The My spot Spotting Brush is a 10/0 synthetic bristle concealer from the kit designed for painting miniature figures. It looks like this:
If you don’t have an art store nearby, order an inexpensive brush set from any online store. Kits are much more securely packaged than individual brushes, and you’re more likely to find a favorite if you have a few to choose from. (Plus, any additions are great for the eyeliner.)
To hide wide areas such as redness on the cheeks and circles under the eyes, I dip the end of the brush into concealer, cross-hatch the area, and touch with my finger to blend.
For dark spots, I apply two or three separate dots of concealer directly to the darkest area, then press and touch with my fingertip to distribute the pigment. If it still shows through, I’ll repeat this process and / or add a dot of orange concealer to cast away residual darkness.
Don’t skip powder
A makeup base is like a brick wall: the powder particles are the bricks that give it structure, and the creams and liquids are the mortar that holds it together. (I believe that in this analogy, fixing sprays are waterproof sealants, which is quite appropriate.)
If you don’t add powder to a carefully applied spot concealer, it will instantly melt from your face, ruining all your hard work. My love for puffs and sponges is well known and is especially important here. No other tool will be able to lay down the hard layer of powder needed to hold the concealer. I love the pointed velor puff for precise powder application.
After painstakingly working on the concealer, you can start applying the rest of your makeup. Whether it’s a day of mascara and lip balm or you’re in the mood for many colors, a flawlessly hidden base will give you the best look.