How and Why to Exfoliate Your Face

If you want to expand your skincare routine beyond cleansing, moisturizing, and sunscreen, exfoliating is the next step. Exfoliating serums and scrubs can fight acne, unclog pores, reduce wrinkles, and lighten skin a little. Some of these promises are true, but there is more to come. So here’s your scientific, medically sound perspective on exfoliation: what it can (and cannot) do for your skin, and what effective, low-cost products you can try.

What is exfoliation?

Let’s start with a quick overview of the top layer of your skin, the epidermis. New cells are born at the bottom of the epidermis, and existing cells are pushed up to the surface, where they eventually die. Their flattened corpses remain the top layer of the epidermis, called the stratum corneum.

However, these dead cells are not useless. They stay close because they are important, serving as a barrier between you and the environment. The stratum corneum is what keeps you from being porous to the outside world by trapping moisture and dirt. Eventually, however, when new cells are pushed out and die, the top layer of the stratum corneum flakes off.

Here is an illustration of the layers of your epidermis (“NMF” – Natural Moisturizing Factors):

Exfoliation is the exfoliation of these cells. Healthy skin exfoliates on its own: Dr. Sandy Skotnicki, a member of the Canadian Dermatology Association and author of the forthcoming book Beyond Soap , told me we get new epidermis every 30 days. But with age, this process slows down. The dullness and flaking we associate with dry skin is a violation of the skin’s natural exfoliation. When there is too much stratum corneum around, the cells clump together into flakes and scales.

Exfoliating products accelerate your skin’s natural process. This can be done by physical means: to cleanse the top layer of dead cells. Others exfoliate with chemicals: loosening the bonds between dead cells so that they fall off faster. Done right, exfoliation really lives up to some of its promises. As Dr. Skotnitski said, “Some kind of mechanical or chemical exfoliation can make your skin a little brighter.”

Do you need to exfoliate?

May be. (Well, no one needs to exfoliate. This is to keep your skin prettier, not healthier.) However, if you are considering adding an exfoliating product to your skincare routine, make sure you are already using a good moisturizer first. …

Dr. Fane Frey, whose website FryFace offers an excellent primer for skin science, told me that moisturizer is actually the best exfoliator. The cells of the stratum corneum are held together by chemical bridges called desmosomes . They are naturally broken down by enzymes in the skin that require water to function. So, says Dr. Frey, the best way to exfoliate is to moisturize your skin. If you’re thinking about what you want from exfoliation – softer, brighter, smoother skin – that’s also what well-hydrated skin looks like.

If you’re in your twenties, you probably don’t need to exfoliate at all. Your skin is still making new cells regularly. Dr. Skotnitsky says that if you’re already hydrating and feel like your skin could do better, it’s best to use a chemical exfoliant like glycolic acid.

But if you are dealing with severe acne, skin conditions like eczema or rosacea, or more serious problems, everyone I spoke to agreed that you should see a doctor. Most chemical exfoliators are quite mild – marketed as cosmetics, not drugs – but they can still irritate very sensitive or damaged skin. And they are not strong enough to solve serious problems.

Wait, what about a scrub?

Physical exfoliators like scrubs are what many of us are most familiar with, and there is something nice about feeling like exfoliation is taking place. Or at least the feeling that you feel it. But physical exfoliators are not a great idea for two main reasons.

First of all, many physical exfoliators in the US are made from plastic microbeads that are harmful to the environment . Second, your goal is to weaken or break the bonds between skin cells, which happens on a very small scale. With a physical scrub, it’s too easy to rub off the skin instead, leading to tiny injuries. Exfoliating with a scrub never hurts your face and is especially dangerous if you have acne or other types of skin inflammation, according to Dr. Skotnitski.

Craving the cleansing sensation of a physical scrub is a lot like thinking you need to be impeccably clean – it’s overkill and has more to do with a psychological sense of cleanliness than a real measure of effectiveness.

All about acids

Consider chemical exfoliators instead of scrubs. They fall into two categories – alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) and beta hydroxy acids (BHA). Dr. Annie Chiu, board certified cosmetologist and general dermatologist, told me that BHAs are good for people with oily or acne-prone skin because they are oil soluble. The standard BHA is salicylic acid, which you’ll find in many over-the-counter acne remedies (although you’ll be using it all over your face to exfoliate, not as a spot treatment). On the other hand, AHAs are beneficial for people with dry skin because they act as moisturizers, drawing water into the skin (either from the dermis or, if you are in high humidity, from the air).

AHAs are of different types: lactic acid, glycolic acid, mandelic acid, and others. The dermatologists I spoke with preferred glycolic acid for its moisturizing properties and solid track record . There is also speculation that because glycolic acid accelerates cell turnover, it stimulates the deeper layers of the skin, which leads to more collagen production, which slows down the formation of wrinkles.

However, despite all these benefits, all the doctors I spoke with agreed that chemical exfoliants should only be used once or twice a week. This is contrary to how many product instructions for use and many users feel that more is better. Dr. Skotnitsky says: “If you ask most dermatologists, [our patients] want to exfoliate too much, they want to wipe too much, they want to clean too much, and your body actually does it for you. You don’t need to help him too much. “

“The skin is an organ,” notes Dr. Frey. “I know we all think of it as beautiful, but it serves a purpose.” This is a defensive target, and exfoliation means undermining your defenses. Remove the topmost layer of cells and you will see fresher and more glowing cells underneath. Remove too much, however, and you will not only leave your skin red and irritated, but you will also expose your body to impurities and other pollutants – and you will make it easier for your skin to lose moisture from air. And remember: it is moisture that helps your skin look its best.

How to shop

Dr. Skotnitsky recommends products containing as few ingredients as possible, advice that is in line with the mainstream skincare trend. Companies like The Ordinary and Paula’s Choice have become popular due to their focus on simple products with one active ingredient. Part of this is marketing, using science as a substitute for quality, but simplicity is an advantage. It also allows some brands to reduce the cost of their products. Dermatological science is just a starting point for finding the right products, so testing products to see how they affect your skin is an important aspect of skin care. Low prices make more experimentation possible.

When products contain more active ingredients, it is more difficult to know if any of the benefits are due to exfoliation or other ingredients. For example, some foods contain polysaccharides, large sugar molecules that Dr. Skotnitski says absorb moisture into the skin. It gives you an instant or overnight plumping effect that makes your skin look gorgeous and reduces the appearance of fine lines, but the effect is temporary.

On the other hand, benefit is benefit. The doctors I spoke to highlighted the difference between products that functionally change your skin (which must be classified as drugs by the FDA) and products that improve the appearance of your skin. The latter is often temporary and doesn’t make your skin healthier, but temporary improvements in appearance are often all a skincare adherent is looking for, and that’s okay.

You don’t have to spend a lot of money to get started with simple exfoliators. The Ordinary – good choice for inexpensive and simple compounds such as their serum BHA and tonic with 7% of glycolic acid . Another simple glycolic acid product is Pixi’s Glow Tonic at 5%. If menthol doesn’t bother your skin, another BHA option is the classic Stridex maximum strength pads in a red field.

You can also look for higher concentrations of acids. These products are often called peels or masks and are washed off after a set period of time, usually 2-10 minutes, like this AHA / BHA combination product that you leave on for ten minutes. (It’s dyed red so you don’t mistake it for an indelible serum – and so you can scare your friends and loved ones into letting it do its job.)

As with any skin care product, start slowly and gradually work your way up. You can place the patch on the inside of your hand or behind your ear to check for an allergic reaction to the new product. Then, especially if you’re new to exfoliation, start once a week and see how your skin reacts to it. You can work up to 2-3 times a week to get an exfoliating serum, and once a week should be enough for an at-home exfoliation or mask. More is not necessarily better. You only have so much dead skin to get rid of! And you need something to protect!

Chemical exfoliants make your skin especially sensitive to sunlight, so remember to use sunscreen every day. It should be broad-spectrum, SPF 30 or higher. But in fact, you have to do it every day.

But don’t expect miracles. Dr. Skotnitski says: “60 percent of aging is due to genetics. You can influence about 40 percent of the aging process. Do you bake yourself in the sun, do you smoke. ” But, she notes, no product will stop or reverse aging. Plastic surgery can turn back the clock, but foods can only slow you down.

Exfoliation is part of that 40 percent. It won’t change your skin (or your life) much, but it is one of the few components of a skin care regimen that is scientifically supported. So align yourself – carefully and only once or twice a week.

Update [03/15/18]: Dr. Skotnitska’s quote has been updated to correctly reflect percentages, which add up to 100%.